A Simple pot using 1/2″ by 1/2″ hardware cloth, using tin snips I cut in 3 places and fold over creating an Armature
I prefer to cut the Tulle into several pieces and then glue on the outer side of the Armature
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Using Quickrete Expanding Portland Cement sets in about 10 minutes hardens overnite
Mix it well 3 minutes of stirring
Since I am covering a sphere shaped armiture I mix it wet and pour over
Inside is now ready for a layer of cement
To finish off I use a flexible tile grout over the layer on the outside of the pot. This grout can added in layers and hardens in 12 hours
I had some neglected Zelkovas I arranged them on 1/2″ by 1/2″ hardware cloth.
Cut the hardware cloth to shape and created an Armiture
Created this slab, did a few layers of Flexible tile grout on the edges drilled holes, airbrushed some semi-transparent stain and done takes about 4 to 5 days to construct waiting for things to dry and harden off.
So some new ideas that I have just done this winter
I wanted to make an accurate pot for a literati Mt Hemlock I have so I came up with an experiment.
I grabbed some aluminum wire went to my tree ( in a nursery pot) formed a rough circle with the wire around the tree. This gave me the general size of the pot I need.
I took some stainless steel wire measured the width of my new pot I also added the depth I wanted to the length of wire, double the length and folded it over. I then added it into a drill grabbed the other end with pliers and with the drill got a nice twist of the wire.
After making several of these wires I attached them to the frame
A little patchwork but I got to use up all my scraps of hardware cloth and now it’s time to glue on the tulle and add the the cement.
Having finished the one above I made several more slabs as seen below
Creating Textures
To create different textures like natural rock depends on the the type of rock you would like to duplicate.
Decide the rock type you wish to duplicate; mainly Sedimentary, Igneous and Metamorphic.
Sedimentary types are limestone, shale, sandstone etc.
Igneous types; basalts, granites etc these two types can be broken into their crystal size and if they were cooled slowly or quickly
Metamorphic marbles, slates gneiss etc.
Some sedimentary rocks are in layers like shales and sandstones to duplicate these I use the fine tile grouts and place thin layers. Wait till it dries and add another layer so on and so on. Look for the different natural colors. Sandstones have a gritty texture I add some coarse sand blasting grit to the grout mix different types of grits and colours are available. As they grout dries you can create layered textures with a sharp point nail just dig in the edges to separate.
Basalts or lavas I use a wet grout mix that flows and drips giving the lava flow effect if you.
I use different grout consistencies to help create different textures and different grouts depending on the sand content of each product. Using the Target grout I am able to use it runny or thick runny gives a smooth texture while thick gives a blocky rough texture. When you apply a second coat of grout the first coat has a tendency to suck up the moisture as you apply and stops it from running.
Experiment with different mixes, amounts of water, product and adding adjuncts.
Dude! Sick!
Just found out about your blog after searching for needle cast solutions. Wow what a find! Thanks for the excellent detailed post on DIY cement pots! Very inspiring!
What is the life cycle on cement pots? I’m assuming their very durable but is there any upkeep with algae or other growing on the exposed edges?
Thanks again,
Scott
Cement pot life cycle? I don’t really know, they will outlive me for sure. Moss and algae will grow on the outside, I airbrush mine with an outdoor semi-transparent stain – same stuff for wood siding decks etc.
Very nice work with the cement…..not to mention the bonsai as well. Just wanted to add (this post is probably very old, but due to the increasing popularity of the subject I will comment lol) that I have been having very good luck using fast-set all-Crete by high performance cement, which I believe is under parent company quick Crete and is widely available at big box stores. It is a non-shrinking high strength cement, although I do not think its polymer enhanced. I have also been using styrofoam as my mold, completely removing the use of a wire frame from my creations. The stuff is like kryptonite.
Do you have to line it before putting the plants in?
I have yet to line any of the pots I have made, so far after a couple of years with some not problem.
What is the best adhesive to glue the fabric to the wire frame?
I tried the 3m spray glue but it froze up and could only use 1/4 of the can. I found the Elmers Glue spray can the best one so far.
what you use to make those rock-like textures? nice pots