This gallery contains 17 photos.
Here is what remains after a days work bucking up the large Sequoia So I decided to put my large Shore Pine forest on top of the stump – just enough room. The poor forest fell apart on me during … Continue reading
Well with my recent move and moving all my trees to the new home I was forced to pot up this large Mt Hemlock forest.
A large pot was needed
Ernie investigating – making sure the forest fits
Arrange a few branches later this year. BTW this is a single trunk tree estimated at around 300 years old
Collecting & Aftercare
My concepts of collecting and caring for Yamadori conifers are contrary to beliefs or teachings of many bonsai enthusiasts. What I have learned and applied over the years with Yamadori is rooted in my Arborist and Horticultural trainings.
When to Collect
As with anything in our busy lives the best time to collect is whenever you can. Spring just before bud break is the best time but due to snow, climate and accessibility there is a limited window of opportunity available. The second best time, or in actuality the best time is in summer to l fall for conifers, especially during a drought or heat wave. What to look for before collecting at this time of year is that all new growth has stopped and next year’s buds have hardened off. During the latter part of summer during a dry hot period most conifers go into ‘summer dormancy’ or better termed as quiescence . Growth has been completed there is new foliage, roots and the buds are already set for next spring’s flush. The next stage for tree growth is trunk growth but we are going to divert this trunk growth energy into root growth at this time of year. Since conifers exist in seasonal environments they must adapt to the conditions presented by both favorable and unfavorable seasons.dormancy reduces exposure to seasonally stressful periods and is basically evading stress, dormant plants do not grow or reproduce. Stress evasion during a drought or a shortage of moisture, tree defenses act in. There is a reduction in transpiration, respiration and photosynthesis. This enables the tree to conserve for next year’s growth, for without growth a tree will perish. When digging out our selected yamadori it is critical that the top two inches of soil within the drip line is not disturbed, this is where all the fine feeder roots reside these are the roots that sustain the tree. All the larger tap and striker roots can be removed. Once dug I bring along a roll of shrink wrap and shrink wrap all the soil and roots nice and tight.
What happens next is critical for 100% success; the yamadori is in quiescence and will respond to a change in environment. I do not use ‘coffin boxes’ known as grow boxes, in the ground or pots at this stage.
A layer of good ground or landscape cloth that allows air and moisture to penetrate is placed on top of the ground in a shade area away from hot afternoon sun.Add 2 to 3 inches of a well rotted mulch, compost on top of the cloth, what I have available commercially is a fish composted fir mulch. Well rotted compost contains humic acid, aerobic bacteria, retains moisture, retains heat and has pore space. Good compost will show NPK (nitrogen, phosphate, potassium) values of 1-1-1 and will usually be constant at 1-1-1 NPK, due to the activities of the aerobic bacteria until there is no compost left.in a form that is available for tree roots. All of this contributes to induce root growth which is want we want. A good idea is to mound up the compost and center the yamadori over the mound and rub in. Cover the Yamadori’s root base with at least two inches of compost not more and do not make a trunk volcano out of the compost, use props and stakes if needed to prevent movement of the collected tree.
The tree is above ground, there is great drainage, plenty of room for root growth, no large air spaces in the root pads, no unnecessary cutting of roots to fit a coffin box or pot. No potential root damage to the lack of oxygen that may occur with in the ground trees. Potting up after the Yamadori is established is much quicker, easier and also during the recovery time a certain amount of surface root work can be accomplished because you can get at it. Water and mist daily, a limited amount of fertilizer can also be added at this time.
There should be enough stored resources in the tree to promote a small amount of root recovery in the form of renewed root growth. Root growth usually occurs in the spring and coincides with shoot growth but since we have provided the collected yamadori with a new unstressed environment new feeder roots will grow into the mulch medium that we have provided thus ending the summer quiescence.
Well with all my gift cards and a half price sale I purchased a garage in a box. It is 12 feet by 20 feet and will get me through the winter – I hope. It took all day to set up by myself – my wife left to visit her mother for 3 weeks so I am by myself in our new home. Still waiting for the faller to fell the large Sequioa that puts my fence building on hold.
I currently rent a commercial shop in town that I am giving up at the end of the month so all my tools and equipment has to get moved to the new house – can not afford mortgage and shop rental plus we are now out of town and it is too far to drive. So my garage in a box is my new temporary shop until I build my new bonsai studio slash workshop.
So today I am going to load my garage in a box with tables, workbenches lights a portable heater. Trying to make it as comfortable as possible so I can work on my trees. I have to start shaping a lot of my collected pines and trim back a lot of the Mt Hemlocks.
Well here is the start of a complete garden renovation at our new house. The house sits on a 1/4 acre lot facing the ocean. We have a partial ocean view and we see the mountains on the BC mainland. I thinking that I might be able to incorporate the distant mountains into the landscape design but it is not that important.
To start off I have to get rid of this Giant Sequoia, blocks most of the light I need and it will only grow bigger and bigger and bigger.
The first 15 to 20 feet of the Sequoia was limbed in preparation for the falling of the tree, This picture should show how large the tree actually is. It will take about a week to clean up all of the branches and some how haul the wood away.View from behind the Sequoia with a few bonsai around the front of the houseA shot from the front and street side, Mt Washington is barely visible in the back ground. In the next shot you can a see a large Alder that is behind the house but in this shot it has been felled opening up back.This shot is taken from the Sequoia and looking towards the back the large Alder is no longer there.I hate the square box flower bed in the front yard, it will soon be removed and that area will just be grassed. In the distance the plan is to have most of the large pines and hemlocks planted with rocks and paths. I have yet formalize a solid plan, what I like to do is to start with a basic overall plan but open to change along the way.Well I hope we all have a great 2012!
I bought a garage in a box with all the gift cards I got for Christmas and it was on sale at 1/2 the price. Waiting for the faller to fall the Sequoia then I can extend the wire fence to keep the hounds in and the fauna out. I see a small bear cutting thru the backyard every 2nd day or so.Six foot wire fence to keep as much fauna out as possible.As soon as this Sequoia gets felled I can continue with the wire fence.
Finally the tree came down – we have a lot of storms lately and all the fallers have been busy.
Here is a picture of a very large Hemlock I collected several years ago and now owned by Mr. Tak Yamaura and on display at Japan Bonsai in Whiterock BC. The next set of photos showed the great lengths it took to collect this monster.
The monster is on it’s side root ball exposed but completely solid and compact no need to wrap the rootball on this one. Now we just have to lower it gently down.Safely down all that is left is to bring the monster home.
Dylan and Ernie getting ready to move the Hemlock to the truck.
Here is a picture that shows P. contorta growing along the edge of a granite outcrop. That’s Sam looking the trees over (actually he wants to get into the mud bog). Elevation is around 2500ft., 5000ft. in elevation is Alpine on Vancouver Island.
More P. contorta as well as C. nootkatensis
Sam loves the bog holes.Spring collecting – I can collect in the spring if the winter snow is not too deep and I can reach the areas before the candles start opening up. Picture taken in early April.Some nice trees here but difficult to collect in the bogs
A better view from the above picture. This tree has a very large trunk and numerous twists and turns. I managed to haul this out and I have to wait another year before working on it.
I would like to share show photos of places that I enjoy collecting Shore Pines at. A picture of a large P. contorta I collected in 2006. Now it is in the collection of Tak Yamaura at Japan Bonsai in Whiterock BC.
Need another person to help me carry this one out.
Tak Yamaura, Joe’s last collecting trip and David Rowe searching for Pines
Tak making friends.
Well we are moving to a new house and we have a lot of trees to move. We have been renting the past 10 years and decided to buy. With buying I decided to start a blog now that I can organize my trees, take pictures and display the trees I intend to keep. I hope to keep this blog going at least every 2 weeks.
Well we are finally in our new house, lots of work to do here. #1 is to remove a huge Sequoia on the property diameter 6 feet at breast height. The stump will make a nice bonsai bench. Still have a lot of trees to move but I got my favorite ones moved. Good thing a friend of mine moved into our old place and I can keep my growing stock there for awhile.
I do Bonsai not giant Sequoias
Front yard – a before picture. After I remove the Sequoia this garden bed is next to be removed. The trees in the half barrels are going to be planted in berms, rocks etc. I need to make a proper pathway, fence to keep my unruly dogs in and benches to display my good trees.